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CATCH 22: Self-Sufficiency & The Effect On Natural Hair Salons

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HomieLoverFriend made a comment the other day that made me look at this “natural hair movement” in a new light. As he watched me twist my hair one night, he said “It’s good that you can do your hair on your own for the most part, but your hairdresser must hate that.”

A lightbulb went off.

Compared to when I was relaxed, my schedule for patronizing salons has gotten less and less frequent. When I was relaxed, I wisely left complex chemical treatments to the pros, but also relied much more on the skill of my favourite stylist to keep me looking good. After I transitioned and started wearing my hair naturally, a lack of competent stylists plus a desire to learn for myself led me to do more at home. Many naturals have echoed the same motivation to become reacquainted with their own hair, and to save money that was spent more regularly at salons – but what does this mean for salons catering to natural Black hair?

HLF’s comment inspired me to speak with the owners and stylists at a few salons that cater to natural – or more commonly termed “curly” – hair salons. There were some common themes. Because stylists and owners saw more and more Black women returning to their natural textures, and because they heard the complaints that traditional salons were not skilled in natural hair, they were driven to fill that niche. In doing so, they worked to create salons that were open and knowledgeable, giving an alternative to salons that saw you walk in with kinks and expected you wanted to walk out with a perm.

Salon3Treatments

The reality for many of these salons is that Black women who’ve become self-sufficient rarely frequent their salons, and usually choose to only do so for complex or special occasion styles. To avoid being too narrow in niche, many salons have branded themselves towards “curly hair” versus the specific “natural hair” label – and this has widened the net of clientele. One stylist told me “We opened this salon for Black women, but they don’t come because they can do their hair on their own now.” Another explained that women of other races make more regular hair appointments, therefore they ensure that their marketing is inclusive of all kinds of curly hair. Could I necessarily blame them? When asked what I love about wearing my hair naturally, one of my top answers is the fact that now I can do my hair on my own (for the most part). Multiply that emotion by the number of women who have also transitioned and feel similarly, and it’s clear that natural/curly hair salons might be feeling the pinch.

Now, I’d clearly be lying if I attempted to act like I didn’t need the pros. There are simply certain things that I can’t (and likely never will) do on my own. A good stylist also knows the science of hair, and can help my hair health in a way that even the best blog post or YouTube video may not be able to. Hell, my scalp massages NEVER feel as good as when my stylist does it! Besides – I miss the community of the Black salon. I remember when I got to go to the salon with my mother, and it felt like a rite of passage. I was allowed to hear women talk about things in a way I had never heard before, saw how different women defined beauty, and learned a ton about relationships, friendship, entrepreneurship, and hair. Those regular appointments were something I looked forward to, and most times I didn’t even mind the long wait for my turn in the chair.

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What a funny conundrum. An influx of women returning to their natural texture struggle to find professionals who know how to care for their hair. They become as self-sufficient as possible with the help of other mediums. Professionals recognize this neglected consumer base and create environments to service them and their specific needs. Those professionals then realize that the self-sufficient women don’t maintain the same frequency of visits that may have been expected or assumed in the past.

Do I have any answers? Not particularly. While I will always love the ability to care for my hair on my own, I still recognize and respect the knowledge and talent that professional stylists have. Frankly, I love the influx of “curly” hair salons cropping up around me. It’s comforting to know that when I need a professional, I’ll be able to find one who is adept at managing my hair with as much care as I do for myself. While many have had to become more inclusive than their original plans may have held, I thank them for reaching out and providing a space for those of us who want more options for our natural hair. To show my gratitude, let me go ahead and book an appointment – ain’t nothin’ like a good scalp massage.

For natural hair wearers who transitioned – do you find that you frequent the salon less now than you did before you were natural? What services do you go to the salon for? For stylists/salon owners – do you work in a salon that caters to natural/curly hair? Has the number of women returning to natural textures affected the frequency/type of clientele you have?  

 

MEETING SADE: What An 8-Year-Old Taught Me About Natural Hair Love

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This past Saturday, I attended the 1st Annual Trust 15 Fundraising Gala event here in Toronto. Trust 15 is a community initiative in the Rexdale neighbourhood comprised of two gender-specific programs for youth called Ladies On The Rise and Men of Distinction. The initiative uses guest mentors and group activities to instill values, teach social and life skills, and encourage education – and it gives youth an outlet and support that may otherwise be unavailable to them.

I mentored with the Ladies On The Rise late last year and was SO happy to support them at their fundraiser, which showcased the amazing skills and confidence the students had gained throughout the program. There were so many magical moments throughout the night, but one of my top picks came just as I was about to leave, when I ran into this cutie named Sade:

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She caught my eye earlier in the night, and I thought she was extremely adorable with her little doll and her kinks and curls. As I gathered my clutch and coat at the end of the event, I noticed her standing with her mom right beside me. I don’t like to make a habit of praising little girls solely on their looks, but I felt compelled to give her a hair compliment – so I sidled my way over, said hello to her mother, then told her I just HAD to tell her how much I loved her hair. Her response? In the cutest voice ever, she looked up and said “I love YOUR hair!” We shook hands, introduced ourselves, and pretty much became BFFs.

We spent the next few minutes talking about our favourite hairstyles (she’s partial to pinned-up mohawks), pet peeves (broken hair elastics and lost bobby pins), and some of our favourite hobbies (like me, she had fun doing fashion shows and modeling). Her mom was super cool and allowed me to get a pic with my mini-me, and we laughed about how similar her and I were. Don’t you see it in the photo? The hair? The coats? The scarves? It was baffling.

Commercial break! Have you entered to win a ticket to The Mystic EffectCheck this post and tell me about your favourite piece of art! 

In recent discussions with other natural hair wearers, transitioners, and those contemplating making the change, there’s often a focus on the negatives of natural hair. Whether it’s complaints about texture, comparisons to others, or negative connotations about women who wear their hair naturally, I’ve been feeling unnecessarily burdened with having to defend my natural hair. Having said that, it was SO refreshing to speak with someone (in this case, an 8 year old with an effervescent personality) who exhibited a crazy amount of love of and pride in her own natural hair.

Do we do enough to instill that same love and pride with the kids in our lives? As y’all know, I don’t have my own yet, but the nieces and nephews and god-children and close friends’ kids in my life get a full dose of love from me. They need to feel proud of the skin and hair they’re in, so that when the pressures to change start to build upon them, they’re able to firmly push back. I don’t think I would have been as proud of my hair when I was Sade’s age. By 8, I was starting to ask my mom if I could have my hair “straight and swingy”, and she finally gave in when I was 12. When I see a young girl rocking her natural hair, I remember how affirmed I would have felt if another fly natural gave me a thumbs up or a sincere compliment – therefore I do the same. You don’t have to look too far into society to find an example of Black beauty being disregarded, mocked, or fetishized. A tap on the shoulder and an “I just wanted to say I love your hair!” is my small way to fight back and either plant the seed or water the plant of self-love and acceptance.

I’m not sure if little Sade realized she was such an inspiration, but she was. That bubbly personality and strong sense of self were nothing short of invigorating. She reminded me of Nikki Giovanni’s quote: “…And he said: you pretty full of yourself ain’t chu. So she replied: show me someone not full of Herself and I’ll show you a hungry person.” The Dos Equis dude may tell you to “Stay thirsty, my friends” – but let’s be like Sade and never be hungry.

How do the young people in your lives showcase their self-love? Are your young natural hair-wearers proud of their kinks and curls? How do you help to instill self-love and pride in young people?

Don’t forget to enter my contest to win a ticket to The Mystic Effect

IT’S ALL IN THE ENDS: Bee’s Trimming Tips

Stop and think – when was the last time you had a trim? Whether done by yourself or a stylist, honestly answer that question. If it’s been a while, this post is for you!

Here’s the deal with trims: I’ve been to too many stylists in my life who confuse “trim” with “haircut”. Since I’ve gone natural, I’ve either attempted to do my own trim, or just hoped for the best when my stylist pulled out the scissors. Lately, however, I’ve been bad. Really bad. And really lazy. I admittedly had an overdue trim that I should have gotten in August…but didn’t get it until my next appointment at Curl Bar Beauty Salon in November. Yikes, I know. I’ve since learned the error of my ways, and I’m here to help you! To borrow from Jay-Z, Bee did that, so hopefully you won’t have to go through that.

Hair ends are the senior citizens of your hair strand, so you’ve got to treat them with the same care and tenderness that you do with Grandma and Grandpa. Sealing/moisturizing ends and doing protective styles that keep your ends away from friction and harsh weather will help, but every once in a while, you’ve got to let those ends go.

For me, not trimming meant:

  • crunchy, crispy ends that wouldn’t hold a twist
  • an audible and tactile difference when combing through my hair shaft
  • ends that frizzed
  • fairy knots and split ends that traveled up my hair shaft
  • drier than usual hair in general

After my long-overdue trim, I found:

  • the ends of my twists coiled perfectly
  • my entire hair shaft felt smooth
  • my hair was more moisturized
  • my twist-outs and Bantu knots were more uniform with no obvious curl difference in the ends

One thing I learned during a consultation at Curl Bar is that our hair ends are the part of the shaft that draw in the most moisture – therefore, if your ends are dry and damaged, you’re limiting the amount of moisture getting to the rest of your hair. 

My happy hair ends!

I’m from the school of thought that there is no one-schedule-fits-all decision on when you should trim your hair. Some trim every 6-8 weeks, some once a quarter, some do mini-trims or dusting once a month, and others trim just as they see fit. I am personally going to commit to trimming once every quarter, whether by myself or at the salon.

Here’s how I’ve always done my own trims:

  1. Thoroughly wash and detangle hair
  2. Blow hair out on medium heat
  3. Set hair in approximately 20-25 two-strand twists
  4. Hold the twist taught and use the width of a pinky finger to measure the length to be cut
  5. Using sharp trimming scissors, snip and continue

Trimming not only helps to ensure the health of my hair, but it makes me even more diligent in taking care of the Grandma and Grandpa of my hair shaft. Moisturizing, sealing, and protecting hair from snagging along my winter scarves and frigid weather becomes crucial, because the more you take care of your ends, the less you’ll have to cut. It doesn’t mean you’ll never have to let go of ends – but hopefully you won’t wait as long as me to get a fresh start!

When was the last time you got a trim? What was the worst trimming experience you ever had? 

IF I CAN DO IT, YOU CAN DO IT! Bee’s Marley Twist Tutorial

Let me just say this: I LOVE MARLEY TWISTS!

Ok. Now that I’ve shouted that from the mountain tops, let me explain. I recently wrote this post for Three Naturals, about the pits of protective styling. After getting some Senegalese twists done last month that only lasted me a few days, I learned how to do my beloved Marley twists, all by myself! I promised that I would do an updated post the next time I installed them, so here it is!

My first round of Marley twists weren’t perfect, but they were all mine, and they served their purpose for about 2 weeks. I took them down and left my hair out for a week, deep conditioning and rocking a cute twist out until it was time to Marley it up again. My video skills (and my Marley twisting skills, to be honest) need some practice, but I got HomieLoverFriend to play photographer so that I could capture my technique, step by step!

First, I got my tools together (purchased at Clore Beauty in Scarborough):

  • Freetress Equal Marley braids in #4 (I used 3.5 packs)
  • Cantu’s Shea Butter leave-in conditioning repair cream
  • ECOStyler Olive Oil styling gel
  • a wide tooth comb to part and detangle
  • banana clips to hold parted hair up and out of the way

Next, I used my fingers and wide-tooth comb to gently comb out my twist-out into a ‘fro.

To do the twists, I began parting my hair section by section, starting at the nape:

My parting skills need work. However, I took the section of hair, smoothed it with the Cantu leave-in, then gently detangled with my wide-tooth comb.

I then smoothed from root to tip of the section with the ECOStyler gel, and separated into two for twisting.

I then took two strands of the Marley braids (they come separated in the pack).

Here’s where it can get a bit tricky. I line up the Marley braids along my hair, with the midpoint of the braid in the middle of my two pieces of hair. Using some gel, I take both pieces of my hair and twist OUTWARDS on both sides. This blends the Marley braid into your hair for twisting.

Once the Marley braid is twisted into my hair, I start my two-strand twist. I take the RIGHT piece and cross it OVER the LEFT piece, then twist all the way down, using a bit of gel to smooth as I go. I find that once I twist the Marley braids outward (in the last step), if I twist LEFT over RIGHT, it naturally wants to unravel itself.

Once you finish and let go of the twist, it will naturally spring back and might feel a bit loose. Don’t worry! This is because the twist itself is thick – it will stay put!

I used perm rods at the ends of each twist, and dunked in a jug of boiled water to seal and curl the ends.

Here’s the finished product from the front…

…and a quick shot from the back!

Now, as I’ve said before – if I can do these twists, anyone can. I am definitely not the most coordinated person, and while it took my hands a few tries to match what my brain wanted it to do, I eventually got it – AND I did a better job than last time! It took me about 3 hours to do my entire head, so my routine will be to leave them in for 2-3 weeks, remove, deep condition, then retwist. It feels great to have a nice protective style that I can do at home while I watch a movie! Also, it’s very cost-effective, as I was able to use the same twists over again for this second set of Marley twists. I do have to perfect the “anchoring” part (what I call starting off the twist), because some parts of my head are easier than others. I also have to perfect the front and try to get the twists closer to my hairline. But other than that, I’m loving my Marley twist work!

If you need a video to see the twists in action, here are 2 great ones that I watched before I embarked on my own journey:

YouTube Preview Image  (via The Good Hair Blog)

YouTube Preview Image (via Curly Nikki)

Got ready for work in the morning, and rocked a cute ponytail – no muss, no fuss! Yay for Marley twists!

 Hopefully when I get better at the twists and can do them smoothly without succumbing to stage fright, I’ll try to create my own video tutorial, because I know pictures don’t always do it justice. If you have any questions or need help, let me know and I’ll do my best!  

SELF-TRUST: Lessons Learned From A Set Of Marley Twists

Over the past little while, a recurring theme has been playing itself out in my life in various ways. From major incidents to seemingly insignificant ones, I finally realized what the intended message was. Last night as I tossed and turned, wide awake with insomnia, I got it. I pulled out my phone, opened my Evernote app, and wrote:

I used to put more trust in others than I did myself. From now on, I’m trusting myself much more.

Funnily enough, once I typed that message, my insomnia lifted and I knocked out.

In many of my recent interactions, I’ve found myself doing things that have me putting Bee in the backseat. From deferring to so-called “experts”, sacrificing my wants and needs so that others would be more comfortable, and biting my tongue when I don’t want to rock the boat, I’ve been unknowingly allowing others to steer my ship. Internally, I’d acquiesce and tell myself that it’s OK – other people may know better, other people may do better, and things may just be better if I hold my tongue or wait my turn. However, with last night’s aha-moment, I realized just how much of a disservice I’m doing to myself.

One big kick-in-the-pants teachable moment was something superficial, but something that taught me a lot about myself. I *drumroll please* actually installed my very first set of Marley twists, all on my own! This was a major feat for an uncoordinated chick with 2 left hands whose fingers manage to get confused with even the simplest YouTube tutorial. Just last week, I paid a stylist to put in the thick, kinky Marley twists I desired, and instead got a head full of heavy Senegalese twists. I had seen pictures and blog posts from other naturalistas who had installed their own Marley twists, but instantly dismissed any possibility that I could do the same. I preferred to pay my money and trust someone who I thought would know better and do better than I – and even though she did an amazing job, it wasn’t what I wanted.

Waist-length Senegalese twists – looked lovely, but weighed a ton

After about 3 days, I ended up taking down the twists. I finally resolved to try to do the Marley twists myself, so I headed to the beauty sto’, picked up the tools I needed, and studied YouTube videos until I felt ready to tackle the job. I’ll just say this – I can do some mean twist-outs, Bantu knots, braid-outs, etc. – but I can’t cornrow, I do tragic flat twists, and consider any style using extensions as one that requires a professional. However, here I was, surrounded by hair extensions, butterfly clips, conditioner and gel, doing the twists – and doing them pretty damn well for a 1st timer, too. When I was through, I was amazed with the final product – I kept looking at my reflection saying, “Did I really do this?”

EDIT: Click here for my Marley Twist tutorial post!

My self-installed Marley twists – not perfect, but I did a LOT better than I thought for my 1st time!

That moment illuminated something for me. In literal and figurative ways, it showed me that I have been putting WAY too much trust in others, and I haven’t been trusting in one of the most capable people I know – myself. Downplaying my abilities hasn’t really benefited me in any way – I’ve lost money, missed opportunities, and second-guessed myself when my instincts were right. I think it’s high time to get off this ride and hitch a new one – one that has me trusting in my ability to do things well, to speak my mind, to go with my gut, and to put myself first a little bit more. A wise man in IKEA said to me once, “Don’t be so afraid to make a mistake that you don’t do ANYTHING.” That being said, a sista is about to do a whole lot – and trust myself that it’ll go better than I thought, or I’ll at the very least learn something along the way.

Do you trust yourself? It may not be a question you ask often, but take this chance to reflect and think about your response. And don’t worry – a Marley twist post is coming soon!

WEEKEND RECAP: Wedding Hair & The Three Naturals Curly Cookout

My weekends have been poppin’ this summer, and even though I sometimes long for a Saturday morning of sleeping in and eating cereal while watching TeleToon Retro, I really can’t complain. This past weekend, I celebrated the weddings of some great friends, and hit up the Three Naturals Curly Cookout!

If you recall from my last post, my hair and I were on the outs for a while. I’m happy to report that we’ve steadily gotten stronger and more in love, and I think we’re back on track. No professional help was needed this time around – I just needed to devote some time and TLC to her!

To prep for the weddings I had to attend, I cowashed (with Eden BodyWorks Jojoba Monoi conditioner) on Thursday night, and set about 15 Bantu knots (with Shea Radiance’s Maximum Curl Defining Cream). My hair takes more than a day a fully dry now, and that time increases with a style like Bantu knots – but thanks to Toronto’s heat wave, my hair was 90% dry overnight! I uncoiled the Bantu knots in the morning and hit my roots with the cool air setting on my blow dryer. Once my hair was 100% dry, I unraveled the style and picked the curls out a bit.

I wasn’t a fan of how my hair looked in the back, and with the heat, I figured an updo would be preferable. I slicked the back and sides of my hair up with water and Shea Radiance cream, pulled out some bobby pins, and pinned my hair into a bouffant style – let some of the curls fall to the side, and BOOM! I was ready for wedding #1!

Cascading curlies!

Usually hate bathroom shots - but had a bit of a wardrobe malfunction when I was told my dress was see-through...YIKES! Lol!

After eating and dancing my life away at the Jamaican bashment wedding of the summer, Saturday saw me getting prepped for my old University of Western Ontario homie’s nuptials. I ran with the updo look again, but this time I picked my curls out a bit more and created a bit of a hair explosion on the top of my head (that’s the best way to describe the look). After a continuation of the weekend’s wardrobe malfunction trend (bra issues and shoe straps breaking right before we left), I grabbed my favourite bright blue Henkaa dress, wrapped it into a quick one-shoulder style, and headed out the door. Funny how a few years ago, I automatically assumed that I had to straighten my hair for formal events! I’ve been loving the natural fancy styles I’ve been coming up with – it’s all about options!

HomieLoverFriend and I (with the hair explosion)

My favourite Henkaa dress! Search "Henkaa" on the blog and you'll see all the posts I've written about it :)

By the time Sunday rolled around, I wondered how much energy I had left. My feet were danced out. My belly was full of jerk chicken, rice and peas, calalloo soup, basmati rice, butter chicken, naan and more. But there was still one more event of the weekend that I could NOT miss – the Three Naturals Curly Cookout at Harlem Underground!

My homegirl Gillian and I made the trek from uptown to Queen Street West in some torrential rains, but we were determined. We were on our way to meet some awesome new folks and eat some delicious food! If you’ve never been, Harlem is one of Toronto’s best soul food joints. I hear they have the best chicken and waffles in Toronto, so if you’re a fan, hit them up!

Harlem's awesome vinyl menus

Three Naturals "I'm A Natural" button - cute, huh?

Best meatloaf ever (aside from my mama's)

Curry chicken and coconut rice and peas

Sooo....I was too busy eating and talking, and forgot to take some better pics of the crowd...I'll link y'all when the Three Naturals ladies post the professional ones!

The meetup was wonderful! After writing for Three Naturals for some time now, it was great to finally meet Noni, Juli-Anne, and Winnie – the ladies behind the natural hair care blog. Even better, we got to meet a ton of ladies who were natural, transitioning, or contemplating the jump into natural hair land. We talked, laughed, shared stories and advice all while munching on the type of food that makes you yearn for a nap afterwards. Shout out to all the lovelies that were in attendance – I loved hanging with y’all!

How was your weekend? What did you think of my wedding styles? Were you at the Curly Cookout? If so, make sure you say hey in the comments section!

STRAIGHT MOVES: Maintaining Flat-Ironed Hair With Minimal Heat

I remember the first time I had my hair flat-ironed after going natural. I was AMAZED! First of all, the process was nowhere as difficult and time-consuming as I thought it would be. Second of all, my hair looked incredible. Compared to when I used to relax it, this hair had so much more body and life to it! The first thing out of my mouth was, “If I knew my hair could look this good, straight or curly, I would have never relaxed it!” However, maintaining healthy flat-ironed hair still requires work, which I’ve learned over the years.

HomieLoverFriend and I gettin' our dance on in December 2008

I have to admit something. Though I’m pretty handy and self-sufficient when it comes to my hair, I haven’t ever washed, blow dried, and flat-ironed my hair on my own since going natural. The main reason is because I don’t have the best flat-iron or blow drier, which I hope to rectify soon. I do have a good enough iron for touch ups, but I’m happy to say I haven’t picked it up once in the week since I flat-ironed my hair! This is a feat for me, because I used to be borderline-obsessive about my flat-iron touch ups. When I started teetering on the brink of heat damage from using the iron almost every other day, I knew I’d have to find a new way to maintain my flat-ironed locks until wash day.

During my most recent flat-iron rendezvous. P.S. - Don't mess with Sunset rum from St. Vincent...

My maintenance routine is pretty damn simple, and requires 4 tools: my trusty satin scarf, Denman brush, duckbill clips, and coconut oil.

When I was relaxed, I used to just sleep on my hair any ole kinda way and get up early to make it look decent in the morning. That was the same vibe I had when I went natural and started flat-ironing. Now, I see that maintenance, especially during sleepytime, takes so much work out of the morning routine! Wrapping my hair is a must, even though it took me a while to get the hang of it. I use my Denman to brush my hair in a circular clockwise motion, and use 3-4 duckbill clips to pin my hair down at various sections. My wrap never looks perfect, but once I get my hair laid, I’m good to go. I tie it down snugly (not tightly – I hate that line across the forehead in the morning), and hit the sheets!

TOLD you my wraps aren't pretty! When I saw how bad this one looked, I asked the Mister to wait for me to re-wrap so he could take another shot. He said no.

In the morning, I remove the scarf and clips, and use the Denman to brush down my hair. I smooth my hair with a small amount of coconut oil (which adds shine and fights frizz), and I’m on my way! No extra heat required!

Of course, with straightened hair, moisture isn’t an ally. If I get a bit frizzy from a steamy post-shower bathroom or when it’s very humid out, I apply some coconut oil, wrap my hair, tie it down, and that usually remedies the situation right away. It’s a similar process if I put my hair up one day, and want to get rid of those annoying hair elastic waves when I wear it down. In rare circumstances I do have to bring out the good ole flat-iron, but I do what I can to avoid any extra usage.

The message of the day? Wrapping your hair is the way, the truth, and the light if you want to maintain healthy and happy flat-ironed hair!

Are you a natural-haired chica who flat-irons your hair? Do you find yourself reaching for the iron often for touch-ups, or you manage with another technique? What’s the best flat-iron and blow dryer out now? A sista needs some new tools!

Spring Flings: New Season, New Hair Regimen

Sunshine makes me wanna get ready for Caribana! Photo courtesy of iShotYa Photography

I don’t know about your neck of the woods, but this winter in Toronto was the mildest I’ve ever seen! While I’m not complaining (I’m really not a cold weather kind of gyal), I wouldn’t have minded getting a LITTLE more usage out of my expensive winter tires…but hey, it is what it is!

This week, Canada’s Screwface capital has turned those frowns upside down, and everyone is a bit more smiley than usual. The sun is out, temperatures are in the teens (Celsius, folks), and people are able to drive with windows down, sunroofs open, and music blasting at ignorant levels. Spring looks like it’s fully springing around these parts, and I am not mad. Since this is Canada, we may get snow next week – but for now, the city is enjoying the early kiss of warmth.

When it comes to hair care, I always switch things up in the warmer weather. I follow different regimens in the cold vs. hot seasons, so it’s about that time for me to start implementing some of my spring/summer hair plans:

Styles: 

In the winter, I like to keep my hair up and protected – fragile ends rubbing on rough cotton scarves and turtlenecks? No thank you. Hair exposed to wild winds and below-freezing temps? I’ll pass. During the winter, buns, pinned up twists, and silk-lined hats are my best friends – but during the spring and summer, I let loose! Twist-outs, braid-outs, I love anything out – my wash n’ gos flourish in the heat too. I’ll also do a flat-iron here or there, but definitely not in the humidity of Toronto summers. Spring and autumn are my hair sweet spots, so I’m looking forward to the return of good hair days!

Conditioning:

I’m gearing up to pack away my rich, heavy conditioners and get into my springtime products. Even though the winter was pretty mild, it was still winter! I found myself using heavier conditioners like Elasta QP’s DPR-11 on a regular basis in order to keep my hair moisturized. Once the weather gets warmer, I find I can leave DPR-11 for deep treatments only, and go back to my Herbal Essences Hello Hydration. I’m also looking to order some more Earthtones Naturals products and see how they hold up in the warmer months. During the spring/summer, my hair is usually good with a light application of  coconut oil or HEHH as a leave-in…and I always keep my spritz bottle full of water handy! Honey also goes back into my HEHH for co-washing – as a natural humectant, honey helps to retain moisture and protect from humidity. Some people find that honey works better for them in the winter, but it helps my curls clump together and stay moist and frizz-free during the summer.

Good Weather, Bad Habits:

I always need to keep myself in check during the spring and summer. Because my wash n’ gos are easier to manage and look better in the warmth, I tend to get lazy at times and rock it for too long, leading to knots and tangles when it’s wash time. As we get closer to summertime, I also need to take extra care to use moisturizing products with some kind of sunscreen. My hair has the tendency of getting bleached to a bright red colour by the sun, and the excess heat can be just as damaging as the bitter cold. I’m not a swimmer, but if I plan to frolic in some open body of water (which actually scares me to death), I have to remember to at least rinse my hair as soon as I get out of the water. Nothing worse than having crusty chlorinated hair, or hair with dried salt in it. Trying to work with your hair when it’s in a dried, angry state is never good, and takes too much time away from my fun in the sun!

Do you make any changes to your hair regimen when the seasons change? What products and styles do you enjoy in the warmer months? 

 P.S. – Today is the day – my Toronto Fashion Week debut! Check here for details and how you can watch the show!

 

Hair Boredom: What To Do When You Need Something New

Hey y’all! I got a few posts out this week, but still feel neglectful :( I had an assignment due for one of the classes I’m taking this semester (I’m finishing up a post-grad certificate in Health Promotion), so I had to devote a lot of research and writing time to that.

TGIF in a major way though! It’s shaping up to be another busy weekend, but I’m looking forward to catching up on some sleep and FINALLY doing something with my hair! It’s been draped up in a tired bun for the past few days, so I can’t wait to wash and make it look half-decent.

Can’t lie though – I’ve been getting increasingly bored with my hair. My usual two-strand twist-out is getting PLAYED out, so I need something new, and fast. Part of this yearning for newness likely also has to do with the fact that the days are getting longer, which means spring is just around the corner (even though we’ve been enjoying a crazy mild winter in Toronto). With spring comes all things fresh and new, and I always get the urge to switch things up once winter thaws out. But what to do?

Photo souce: Party Over Hair

I’ve been dreaming about twists for a while now. Thick kinky twists, small Senegalese twists…this style is so easy yet so versatile. I’d love to rock some super-long twists to get the best of both worlds: I can take a hair break AND still have crazy style options? Where do I sign up?

Photo source: Popstar

Even further back than the twists, I’ve had colour on my mind. I usually go light for the spring/summer, but skipped 2011. I’m craving some multi-dimensional pops of colour, and Tanika Ray has always been my hair dye dream girl. I’ve coloured before with no real damage, so I’m not afraid to take that leap. Some sunshiny-bright hair would definitely give me a new look, so maybe that’s the way to go…

Maybe I just need to do a quick lil’ flat iron and rock some straight locks for a while? I haven’t straightened my hair in a few months, so maybe that’s the change I need. The only thing that annoys me about straight hair is having to wrap it at night…sometimes a girl just wants to throw it in a bun and jump in the sack! I can’t be bothered with the extra work at times – but it definitely allows me to keep my ‘do looking fresh for a LONG time. A good wrap at night = no need to do any touch-ups with the flat iron. I got a great trim at my last hair appointment and I’ve been working hard to protect my ends, so it would be nice to see how much length I’ve gained/retained…

With my favourite cup - one that I got at my 3rd birthday party!

Makeup-less...but I could have at least put a lil Vaseline on my lips :/

With the little sis!

…or maybe I just need to stop being lazy. If I put in more effort, I’m sure I could make the most of what I’ve got! I was (at one point) pretty creative with updos (like the top photo – loose flat twisted front into a low bun) – if I took the time, I’m sure I could come up with something cute! I could also pull out some heat protectant serum with my trusty blow dryer and do a blown-out wash n’ go (like second photo) or blow my hair out prior to twisting. Or, I could take my own advice and get busy with my Curlformers (used in third photo)! I’ve been meaning to rock with them as of late, so I need to be like Nike and just do it. Maybe the only change I need is to make some more time for myself and explore something other than a bun or a twist-out. Could the answer be so simple?

Anyone out there also stuck in a hair rut? Do you have any big plans for a new spring style? Have an idea for a style I should try? Let a sista know!

Not Quite Short But Not Quite Long: Styling Hair In The “In-Between” Phase

I recently had a friend hit me up on Facebook, asking for details about my NYE hair style. She said, “Please tell me how you get your hair like you have in your current profile pic? I’m looking for my options for natural hair styles. My hair is much shorter so it may not look so fro-fabulous, but I’m willing to try.” That took me back to the days when my hair was much shorter than it is now, and the constant thoughts of “What am I going to do with it today?”

As I’ve mentioned before, I transitioned to natural hair for one year, then did my big chop in August of 2008. My hair was the shortest it had ever been, and I had no clue how to style it. My favourite online resource was Fotki, a photography site where I found a ton of naturalistas congregating and sharing their hair regimens and styles. I quickly created an account and joined the network of women documenting their journeys from big chops and beyond. For women who did the ultimate big chop, I heard from many of them that things get a bit frustrating when they start to gain a bit of length. I took some time to look back at my hair in those early days, and thought to post some of those photos here for anyone who needs some inspiration. If your hair is not really short, but not really long – this post is for you!

(click photos to enlarge)

This was the first picture I took when I left the salon that did my big chop.The look on my face says it all: "WTF???" I had zero clue what I was doing...lol!

Just after a photo shoot - hair was in a twist-out, which was my go-to style in the early days.

A month after the BC (big chop), I had my hair professionally styled for a wedding. Cornrows on one side, with coils that were released for a full, curly look. Loved it!

This was the first time I tried a twist-out on dry hair - I loved the stretch and the fluffiness of it!

Here, I tried doing a twist-out with really small twists. Led to an entirely new look, with much more defined curls. Pinned back the front and sides, and was good to go!

During that in-betweeny phase, hair accessories like bobby pins, clips, and scarves were by BFFs. Here, I used a silk scarf to pull my curls back into a pouf.

I started doing braid-outs with coiled ends, and got a different, but defined look.

A two-day old braid-out - in that early stage, braid-outs stretched my hair and gave me a bit more length than I thought I had.

An oldie but goodie from January 2009 - I used bobby pins to shape almost every style I did. Who's that on that far right? Rowena from nubiansoulslocks.blogspot.com!

For the days when I wanted to let my twists chill for a bit, I pulled out the crochet hat...cute and simple style, especially if I knew my twists weren't dry enough to undo!

What were my favourite products back in the early days? I used Pantene Pro-V’s Relaxed & Natural conditioner, Queen Helene’s conditioner, Aussie’s 3-Minute Miracle, Elasta QP Mango leave-in conditioner, Ramoni leave-in conditioner (mixed with extra virgin olive oil aka EVOO), Organics Lock & Twist Gel, IC Fantasia Gel, and Kinky Curly Curling Custard. Yeah, I was a bit of a product junkie! I’ve simplified a lot since then, but I don’t think there’s anything wrong with new naturals indulging in product overload – it’s part of the learning process.

Patience is another part of the in-between phase. Once I started focusing on the health of my hair versus the length of my hair, I began to enjoy the whole journey even more. Now that my hair has grown, I look back and realize that certain styles actually looked better then than now! Sometimes the quest for long hair is overrated – if that’s your goal, then by all means, go for it! Just don’t forget to enjoy where you are right now. Natural hair lends itself well to many different style options, so try them all! Twist-outs, braid-outs, coil-outs – do them on wet hair, do them on dry hair, do them on lightly blow-dried hair, do them big or small. Wash n’ gos, careful flat ironing…the options are endless! Get creative and enjoy!

Are you smack dab in the middle of this “in-between” phase right now? Are you enjoying it, or are you waiting for more length? If you have any style or product tips that have worked for you, let us know!